泛亚生活记者  大正

“亡人节”是柬埔寨最重要的传统节日,上至国王,下至普通民众都要以佛教传统习俗过节, “亡人节”的最后三天是法定假日,民众在这期间与家人团聚,追悼亡灵、祭拜祖先、到全国各寺庙走访亲朋。

在亡人节假期正式开启之前,聚集金边近百万务工的当地人纷纷携家人返乡,金边街道上上演“回乡潮”大片。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wOTlcLzIwOWYxMmYwNWUwY2UzOTk0OTRkNDk5ZDBjYzJkNmIzLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=JGFJpiGDXiBhQhglCZsXhKSc~iO0mim37XefP97Nvm5nvetBm-aGGLDi11Anss0puB0L--uK2wH7F-g8c82Bd6akSlMnsw7dnJP11DswydP5wnb7P-fo546j1fERBQ5zKvLiLo7B6s70muLWr470ZMSRI8Y2IV~sgVqZV4RbBwN4ZF49c9s3bZJ2DNX14jPbvstk3gY8U2VU6318s-7s~IGQpzJoDi0LKljHO0FeGY2QNkf4xgfZ8LrIww18~S8jekdCGp9IQ6k4vXqYPO90pc~tGsV7oMIQfRX47C7toDKL4NOlm9QwlrKbxxFIxR4ZNzqh8GyU5Dswhu3NdUipmw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

今天正值亡人节假期的第二天,金边街道上一反往日的拥堵状况,大街小巷多是空空荡荡。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wNzNcL2E4NmU4NjIwYTU4MjJhM2ZhZWY1ZDJkZmVlN2I5YjVkLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=nfC2pISlZpjV~cD7f9le-n6rJHTdACJXvg2eqAzY4ZU3DeXwPbgr1EPjT~3jBWXi-WJVXLHodDRLCO9x1dNmE2Q0-tjN8bJ2jR3EJOW2BiVQcQ5en-ntC7YruTBgBiv84x47dbvq-ojtzcykrkYXjFLgVK0m~gRqG5~joyKahAmbJS6xasg7FD9tkThbHiFOXx6hLS3iXbryNxsqhm0Sw9Qu5oOxeJc5A8-7vJGR2gmfgdcV7vvhGtGsy2Za-T7Ko0twHAyfLNlrgED1hsTEPl~RGXTXcUBbelK-dNQy3SUN1GIRRzdtwpggqrhLzZpEv0sr1HY6L0uadlZHgOW0jA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

临街的不少商店关门了,只能稀稀疏疏的看到几家店铺开门迎客。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wMjlcLzJkMmViNWFiMDFiNDg4NmJmOWY4MzU0ZmNjMDVmMzYxLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=Q2IUGQ9iU0bVdrcEPJk2vOxvwN8faUeXxvyXtScZMPfHmMBO0-Oh13zM-~gmT8SwoA~-nS8A5eIKeORSlxjXiPNDfnxZD7aJGbWgscj66v6~hbivmrPx7ebAyj9PiOuUebJ7ljddrrvKnfiDHJA~90WapcPG5WK4q7RmzTDX-uNOMq7Xvwwuzz7VxGBhGYX72aPS4zFdOeE0cyA-NPGM0PVg5XGU6dgOkWEa~VwR9WTUjaSvP~Ce7lLYp08b620oia6-q-uApCxckruPUV0-bjie8VQCHWmGVYFPLWCbwFO51Q-cY8r9TD9jSDY8Zp7DsJALiSkzqbs1h2alsoihoA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

就连平常熙熙攘攘,人头攒动的BKK市场也是关门状态。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wMDVcLzQyZGM2NmRkNTEzM2VhYzdiYjNlYjI0MTE1YzlmNDNmLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=fVz7ss0JqXldWYx6ddojciZvfoHREauG8qAhILeTfwzpD02iO3qXGfvVXnDp4F2mrfyT34aVW-qSI~8r7AmlIWhhwtURFnHeJEoV7r17RWwlC7OYHxuwtskr2tKu5MDzcv8SwsAjYdWr9ylqQ9GZRAv5dPLvRnH89de1l8OTEBEvaoV6c-0KL~bTvSURzFRm331DatCIMydIzZIDbm7zCczODB9m4Kor~hb7~SheO5H~9ma4SzmeMulk5o~QVVJGHJTdBATavsW7Dus4Qc7GcBgLsW3-8ysvfyg1SFoDqjLiPEOqRRRnUxp1N1hIqZ~8zW0q27iwANjIlGETRtRm~w__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q
https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wNjZcL2UyMzg2M2I1MjNiNGRmMjhhY2ZkZmQyZDBlMjA3ODI1LmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=gFLA9cDybwUOfbCyICSyTG01i~Gj5l3V4RGaUNi8MAxndR3uyLt4b6QOS7F45Ho1~ihf9-a25T-eHNWuIVuuKWAA1AExENgtqhEqsBX6FHAzbohNr6OKq7vnaPGItmVDoOUFeGjAdF7wMmU7fYMBlk6g-7zRnMJ7oAimAHfuDl5HdopidVRn1-IFwcZYFtghKch434uy5EIHdtArR3Cy3IONLxzfDKkyf7kYQFWryUb1l8Gy86iH8vfgX5hWiPrfdm4J5kDn9YwVGR4~qEyFCuXsw8PnejxJTpDOtXVqBNyBTcW~DojiitowYoqEoxxZ8pMTEkYu1xG5wWRu00SJvg__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

但闲不住的小贩在市场周边摆起了小摊,不时有民众停下来采购物品。清冷的街道中,也有几分烟火气。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wMjlcL2I1YTYzNmExNWIxOGEzYjlmODVjMDA3MTJkZDA5YjU3LmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=JAvi~vDMuBs0-edWXVNOPrFpwb58eoqTHyvDvYR5v19IAfONqLGwuUfzgvlMfmbE7pRQqUfZiv-I2~6wKi9TePLPCZfzVuuYrtff~aSqnDwrGHzJBFAWeDXvMC1pP9lBosAl0oQVhT7TRmf-F25c7fZHivg-JYp3OojOkcbJpTHBC481g1zss0Bg-QcVroWEnhbkrUFgIiNO1w6y5gkR-TAXt8EKUri-wU6FCh9Et~B5-XSSwgY9cT8noIepEGIsHVVpaRvykvmMazTY5ORJ6MJUmyB9Pq6z0SPwZupZv25Se8BERcM7XcBx2pth-J4nsFi2tkf-rRxnZO~ZEHvzQQ__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q
https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8xMDRcLzQwMmFkNDU0YjgzYzU1YjdjM2Y0MWM1ZDE4NWU5MTJhLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=o3r43YPtpx1kd9HoZ1WrBHQc9qoOglP3y2L65CJgIvHseRmb-cSW2yTlmws~8nqD66M2i497VgXnTZ8mes4PICSmcYCNhVrQ9XcQxnULcoXm-iFuiByvxSoNceSvbslKiCs4sgHzbZn5DRdwdd42jsa8b9jlaB7~PUh54W9n4Uih3hAZCuUQfUgqFFwiccTpUkHhNP3awl2a09586QrDCGuh4cW39D7DZlnsKkQ3RtSmpEm8fOArSgwV9kiwOAE0kUj-ZJKLL0swAMiUnxR10eZTtXk1E-et8j1U0R6z7gRto8IMkJBxYbM6sivVAwF~RV4AWPPdQdRGbdzEl7sgJA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

此前卖早餐的摊位都已经没人了,要想吃一碗热气腾腾的粿条,估计要多费些功夫。BKK市场旁有一个粿条摊,吸引了过路的民众,食客络绎不绝。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wMjJcLzliZjIzZWY3ZjI4OTRmMzAwODU0MDlhYzkxZTE1YjRiLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=YQ1W2~jyHO7aWO0BV2So6RpLzMLnB4Db7KCDsGeqbiCC4Oe9Xh4nls9FgIfelSrgu1atVsSpaePh24KRCfRUWzNZDDMHoSCpJyTtbHcm93AGN~dN-g1fX8UVmcPXF3juTCNtTuB64JnjsFE87H4q~BLweJY7a3amyYlv3Lz~UWqo3IvOBy~WE9yyPf04auOQrK2~2xKvJFrEgu8H3S9IyrOth7zT8oj-FSEgK2~oxA2kaJQ9Sqh0IybV-NFWV3l0cfim0dl~B-S1f7aCiGy3Ybqgwfslb9yvWqPAovKctXmKmc~EhKLjmDNOh1JQ93mKhcoFIZpihPaSmJGkOg0UWw__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

柬埔寨是佛教大国,正值亡人节,虔诚的民众会购买清香的茉莉和荷花供佛。来往的民众买了几支荷花,便往寺庙的方向走去。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wMzRcL2Y0Yjc3MDQzZTdhM2Y4Y2Y1MDM5YzBhNjBhZmM0NmQxLmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=BJFqS98HiDG5zpxm~StRRqAaXEVqqGNUW4zuNYmjeT1Mz1ed4nRgSOLrYEpkPQzvn0zda~8-InF8FRi0M~COzv~CF2kFbvnSWs4g1ECHQwfmQh3y0y6Mq-Ap9Pqhsyf~OHkaOYmpsJjzPLwpHGpQNtyQ26pYZ8IUlZ2QuiGeLKqy0JDuJGXMqc06YQVCLQysSq8zOgLA6XDsttAj64HMJBUG69FOs8qC92BmUJMEsuDiArZzXSWPa4xH6llqS0vlvgVzJZmAWfb5dW8ypZtmYdyNWi3Z339qhHd5lecFSGdkYxGjU-opKVxIO6IZUFLVJPq6yytoqf8rAv7JGMolcg__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

用心穿茉莉花串的柬埔寨妇女,脸上是宁静的“高棉微笑”,茉莉花在清水里越发新鲜,清香的味道扑面而来。

https://cdnnewsthumb.aostatic.com/eyJidWNrZXQiOiJuZXdzLmFvc3RhdGljLmNvbSIsImtleSI6ImltYWdlXC8wNjFcL2M2MGNkMGE0YzcyZDE2N2ZlMzM5Mjc4OGU5NzBjZTk5LmpwZyIsImVkaXRzIjp7InJlc2l6ZSI6eyJ3aWR0aCI6NzUwLCJmaXQiOiJjb3ZlciIsInBvc2l0aW9uIjoidG9wIn0sImpwZWciOnsicXVhbGl0eSI6NTB9fX0=?Expires=1601827200&Signature=E6WqQSgCNFvnk8OLvp~hZEYhMBmHT2rj5l5IYxg~46cJe-wVtQER2E7PYQaki6xcjJ10BhP6D6xD6uKxS6SxlP-tkvtBc0I02G08zFXHElRghV-tFyHSOI79OuUXqFj25gYbMQlRGcIF6pxZPi9lmOcI-Y~U66yVcofuw045uajf69oqO~wtnNYXAr38h2uEFpn70B1Q1QrtFmY7P22OCwBS5EC2rNGsD8PJCbZFvprZUR22yWxnli2pXOU1P7UDY0xSdbSUmXPTD2LKQz3k3ONHuMipTLGbn6V~qLNF12VRoJzRT7-0tCXegg45GOCZ9-VotKeA5CSxvhX8NaC9UA__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAI7NM5MZPFVEAJ63Q

2020年,柬埔寨全年有28天法定节假日,是世界上假期最多的国家之一。正是因为假期多,很多外国人会认为柬埔寨民众对过节有狂热的兴趣。

柬埔寨民众热爱过节,一方面是对传统文化的传承,另一方面是因为柬埔寨人生活节奏很缓慢,他们不急不躁,也很享受生活,一有开心的事就要约几个好友聚到一起喝喝啤酒,唱歌跳舞庆祝。

柬埔寨是一个佛教国家,在亡人节期间,不管是传统家庭还是现代家庭逢年过节都会去寺庙供奉和尚。柬埔寨人信仰小乘佛教,特别注重个人的修行,他们相信因果循环,喜善事,厌恶事,在他们脸上经常能看到高棉微笑。

在亡人节期间,要像当地人一样去过节,用柬埔寨人呢特有的方式,去感受柬埔寨独特的节日气氛吧。